Sunday, February 28, 2010

The Coastal Path


Our Group: Me, Michael, Julie, Melissa, Daria

So, yesterday the usual group hiked part of the Coastal Path between the large fishing town of Anstruther and the smaller fishing village of Crail; both of which are just south of St Andrews. We were a bit concerned that the weather wasn't going to hold out, but thankfully Scottish weather forecasters are just as inaccurate as their American counterparts. Though it was a bit chilly and quite windy, all in all it was a fine Scottish day.

After taking the bus to Anstruther we walked down the pier and around the town a bit. We had seen a small, older looking church from the harbor and went exploring to see if we could find it. After wandering a bit we came across the church and went into the graveyard. The headstones were from years between 1626 and the mid 1900s and for people from the town and others who died in Australia. I kept seeing Wilsons (my mom's side) and Scotts (my dad's side) and realized that their was an extremely high chance that I was related to at least one, possible several, of the people who were buried there.



The Church from across the harbor

It has been interesting for me how connected I feel to this country. I have always felt American and have had ancestors in America since before it could be called the US, but I have realized over the years that part of being American is also having a connection to other nationalities. The beauty, to me, of the US is that people do have, and keep traditions, beliefs and values from their ancestry. Being in Scotland had filled that bit of me that has always wondered where my roots come from. I appreciate and value my American heritage, and it will always be my primary identity. But knowing a bit more helps me understand why I do, believe and act the way I do.

We continued the day at the Anstruther Fish Bar which has won several awards for the best fish and chips in the UK! I agree with their title; the fish and chips were excellent. We are planning a return visit, and I think I will have to see if their prawns, "shrimp", are just as good. After a bit of ice cream, yes I did get mint chocolate chip, we headed for the path.

The walk was muddy due to the 4 days of solid rain we had last week, but the views and beautiful land made dealing with the mud worth it! The landscape must have changed five or six times as we walked the short three and a half miles. We encountered bog like areas, patches filled with bushes, rocky areas, farm land (including pigs), beach-like areas and pastoral stretches. It was such a different experience than most of the hikes I have been on before. First of all, you could see where you were going and where you came from most of the time. This was very different from hiking in the Smokey Mountains where you can't see your hiking group if they get 100 yards in front of you. Secondly, the elevation increase was very small. This was not the typical hike up the mountain for the view and then hike back down I am used to.

As we walked we passed a few hamlets between the towns, we came across one in particular that was just so picturesque. I decided I could retire their and be perfectly content. I had thought the charming little cottage in Anstruther right off the harbor had been perfect, but this house, with it's large windows on the sea side and secluded location down a hill from the main road was so calming and welcoming.

As we finished our hike we came around a corner, after not seeing any real sign of civilization for fifteen minutes, and Crail appeared! It was odd to have this little town just sitting out on the coast, seemingly in the middle of nowhere.


The first view of Crial

I realized yesterday that I have now been here for four weeks. Part of me feels as if I have been here for years. I already feel comfortable and like I have a routine. Another part of me can't believe I am here, thousands of miles away from my home, in the land of a good portion of my ancestors.


Me by a rock formation we passed

Well, I must get some reading finished! I keep having to remind myself that I am taking classes and so should do some work along with my exploring.

Next to come, swing dance society, maybe Celtic dance society, and thoughts on the difference between St Andrews and Anstruther.

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